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1. |
Radiators are boxed together in as few crates as
possible. A box of brackets is included as a
separate piece, and it is marked by bright taping.
Inside the crates, each panel is wrapped in foam
sheeting. Saving this foam to re-wrap the panel
once it is wall mounted will protect it from
construction site damage. |
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2. |
Each
radiator is tagged with a label that indicates the
project name, model type, color, connection code,
and tag number. The tag number will usually
designate a floor level and room number for easier
placement on the job. Locate each radiator as
required. |
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3. |
Carefully place each radiator face down on a
smooth level surface. If possible, expose the top
header at the selected mounting locations without
unwrapping the radiator. Locate the correct number
of K70 brackets at stud locations (approximately
one bracket every 3 to 6 feet), with a bracket at
each end of the radiator. Allow a minimum of 3
inches below each column radiator to facilitate
cleaning and to assure proper output. Attach each
K70 bracket with a lag screw or bolt. With the
radiator still face down, snap the K72 offset
bracket onto the bottom header pipe. Hang the
panel onto the K70 brackets to determine if the
K72 offset bracket bolts are properly adjusted.
Check that the panel is level and plumb. Once the
panel is adjusted to the correct position, remove
it from the wall and tighten up the bracket bolts.
Use 2 bolts per K70 bracket. |
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4. |
With the
radiator face down, remove the plastic plugs from
all tappings. Thread the supply and return
fittings into the ½”NPT tappings on the column
radiator. The sealing tape or pipe dope used is
the installer’s choice – make sure the connections
are leak tight. Use the foam wrapping as a pad for
the face of the radiator when tightening up the
fittings. Each radiator needs to be fitted with a
1/8”NPT air vent prior to filling and startup. |
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5. |
For
pedestal mounted column radiators, place the
radiator in the proper position with respect to
the window or wall and locate the bolt holes in
the pedestal baseplates on the floor. After
threading the needed piping adapters into the
radiator and running the supply and return piping
to the adapters, bolt down the pedestals to the
floor and securely attach all the piping. |
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6. |
Radiators expand a maximum of 0.016 inch per
linear foot of length if heated to 215°F. Piping
attached to the radiator must provide the
necessary expansion compensation. Flexible piping
and elbowed piping are two simple ways to provide
the flexibility required. Black iron pipe, copper
tubing, coiled soft copper, and PEX piping (with
215°F Rating) can be used. A typical radiator
connection usually incorporates a union (can be
dielectric, but it is not required) and an
isolation valve (radiator union valve, or union
ball valve), but often they are “hard piped” in
place. Paint any exposing piping as required with
the touch-up provided. |
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7. |
Once the
radiators are installed, the system can be tested
to 50 psi. DO NOT OVER-PRESSURIZE THE RADIATORS as
permanent damage may be occur.
Standard
Column Radiators
Maximum 56 psi
When
the system has been shown to hold 50 psi maximum
air, the piping and radiators can be filled with
water. As water fills the system and radiators,
air is forced to the vent fittings. Vent as much
air as possible before turning on the circulating
pump(s). |
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8. |
When the
system is filled, operate the circulator(s) to
force the remaining air to the high points of the
system. With the system pressurized, turn off the
circulator(s) to vent the panels. Each radiator
should be individually bled of air. Once cold
venting has been completed, heat the system to
design temperature and repeat the venting
procedure. |


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